There’d been some other life change in moments in my life as well. About eight years ago I had some problems with my stomach. To make a long story short I ended up on life support for a month. They didn’t think I was going to live. All my organs had shot down and I was taken by helicopter to Stanford hospital. I spent six weeks in the hospital. I was sick as a dog for a year. At that point to have realized that life is short. This happened in about 1998.

Two years after that experience I had prostate cancer. I had radical surgery and again I knew that life is short. There’s no time to jerk off. Spend every moment loving your family and the things like surfing or writing a book. Do whatever fills your spirit with clarity and serenity.

My best friend from Edgemont, New Jersey now lives in California. We stayed in touch, and he came out here about seven years ago. He’s getting married to a gal that I hooked him up with. He’s been my best friend since we were thirteen. He’s sober.

Among my core group of seven friends I am in touch with all of them, and have strong contacts with two of them. I maintain deep friendships with these guys and we see one another once a year.

Life is short. There’s no time to waste with bullshit. There’s no time to waste being angry of people, for being angry with your family. I’m real close to my sister and real close to my mother.

We’re here for one thing in this life: to enjoy every moment you can. My father always made work a downer. The one I go to work I enjoy every moment I can. I loved to surf. I don’t work full – time.


How We Talk with our Son


Betsy and I talk but it doesn’t work that way with a twelve year old. You can’t say: “what’s going on with you; what’s happening?”

The more you knock their head into communicating the more they’ll hold back. You can’t use direct conversation.